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Fat is where it's at

For decades, fat has been blamed for everything from heart disease to obesity to cancer. But new research shows that fat can be good for you.

Janet Paskin | June/July 2009 issue

Photo: istockphoto.com/redmonkey8

Dutch pediatricians were so alarmed by the low-fat trend that they urged parents to ensure that their children receive the essential nutrients only fat can bring. "Children under the age of 6 need fat," said Elise Buiting, president of the Dutch Youth Service Medical Association, in an interview with a Dutch newspaper this year. "We recommend full-fat margarine with unsaturated fatty acids, for example. Children who are given the same ‘light’ products as their parents do not get enough."

As for the connection between fatty foods and weight, it’s controversial as well. Obesity was never the target of Congress’ efforts, although the low-fat recommendations were instituted to help people manage their weight. They haven’t. Since the guidelines were adopted, Americans have indisputably gotten fatter. "In the early 1990s, we ate low-fat everything and we didn’t get thinner," says Alice Lichtenstein, a professor of nutrition science and policy at Tufts University in Massachusetts. "There’s your proof."

In the 1960s and ’70s, roughly 14 percent of Americans was obese. Today, more than 30 percent is, with another 30 percent classified as "overweight." Same goes in Europe, where consumption of fat has dropped and obesity rates have risen. In the U.K., obesity rates have tripled since 1980. In the Netherlands, the percentage of moderately overweight adults increased from 28 in 1981 to almost 36 in 2008, according to the Dutch Central Bureau of Statistics. The percentage of obese people more than doubled, from 5.1 percent to 11.2 percent, in the same period. According to the Society for the Study of Obesity, roughly half the population of the European Union is overweight or obese.

In three decades, while scientists have learned more about what eating fat will and won’t do, consumers have wholeheartedly embraced the "low-fat" doctrine. In the 1990s, more than 1,000 reduced- or low-fat foods were introduced each year, according to the AHA. By the end of the decade, more than 90 percent of the population reported consuming low-fat products. According to one survey, two out of three adults believed "a need exists for food ingredients that can replace the fat in food products," and one out of every two saw the appeal in food advertised as "reduced in both fat and calories." In other words, given the chance to replace fat with something else, we opened wide.

So given the blanket condemnation of fat, what did we eat instead? If we cut fat out of our diets, we have to get calories from somewhere. When food companies offer reduced-fat versions of cookies, salad dressings and sauces, sugar and carbohydrates generally make up the difference. When we consciously reduce the fat in our diets, we don’t typically eat fewer calories; we eat more rice and pasta, according to a survey by the U.S. Department of Agriculture. And low-fat products have their own problems. "If you reduce the fat, you have to replace it with something," says Samuel Klein, a professor of medicine and nutrition in the medical school at Washington University in St. Louis, Missouri. "So it’s sugar." It’s true: Either for taste, or to replace fat’s richness and moistness, the food industry began using sugar.

But as researchers studied fat and weight, they learned more about the effects of sugar, which as it turns out may inspire more weight gain than fat does. When we eat sugar—or refined carbohydrates, which break down into sugar—the body produces insulin to transport the sugar to the muscles and organs that burn it as fuel. Insulin, though, also regulates fat metabolism, and when insulin levels are high, the body stores fat rather than burning it. The issues and consequences of producing too much insulin are still open to debate, but many researchers believe that replacing fats with sugars and carbohydrates has the potential to wreak havoc on your metabolism. And ironically, even sugar substitutes, like aspartame, the sweetener in NutraSweet and Equal, have been linked to weight gain. Scientists aren’t sure why, but they seem to encourage people to eat more, or disrupt energy expenditures.

Sugar substitutes work well for baked goods, salad dressings and processed meats. But they can’t be fried, making them useless in potato chips, which account for 35 percent of the $46 billion global market for savory snacks, according to the research firm Datamonitor. So food scientists developed an indigestible fat, sucrose polyester—more commonly known by its brand name, Olestra. Researchers found Olestra inhibits the absorption of fat-soluble vitamins and other important nutrients.

Overall, as Americans replaced regular foods with low-fat products, nutrition sometimes suffered. One study found that women who used fat-modified products weren’t getting enough vitamin E or zinc, prompting the authors to recommend "additional dietary guidance."


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Comments (11)

This isn't new information. It's new MAINSTREAM information. But more information can be found at WestonAPrice.org, among other websites. Thank you very, very much for putting this on the cover. Saturated fat is GOOD for us! Tribal diets all over the world prove this. Eat whole foods, not non-fat foods. I'm writing for work, or I'd write longer praises about your article. Suffice it to say, thank you for sharing!

posted by JessicaLeah on 6/17/2009 6:53 pm

I believe when people have recommended lard as part of our diet, they were referring to self-rendered lard, as opposed to the carcinogenic, hydrogenated form we find in the grocery store.

posted by sequoia on 6/18/2009 12:31 pm

Great article, with some caveats. The source of the fats is quite important. Personally, I am not a fan of eating grain-fed caged-animal foods and consider them unhealthy for a substantial portion of the population. I feel the same way when it comes to vegan and most vegetarian diets. Instead, I eat what my research has shown to be what Nature intended, which is a diet of free-range grass and grub-fed animal foods (the more fat the better) and ripe sweet fruit. The largest "clinical trial" in the history of our species (conducted by Nature over 100,000 generations) has proven to me that this diet is the healthiest and most ecologically sustainable.

Of course, there are no recent studies based on this diet because virtually nobody eats this way as a result of having been brainwashed by the AgriGiants and feedlot meat production industries. For those interested in a discussion of the unsustainability of planting annual monocrops such as wheat, corn and soy (all require huge amounts of fossil fuels and manmade chemical processing to produce), and the benefits of raising animals on perennial grass (no planting, no fertilizing, no pesticides), read: "The Vegetarian Myth" by Lierre Keith and "Against the Grain" by Richard Manning (researches the ethical, political, ecological, and nutritional deficits of a vegetarian diet). For those interested in reading about a fascinating experiment based on Nature to provide a healthy life in harmony with our environment, read my book "The Original Diet - The Omnivore's Solution". Ask your librarian to obtain copies and you can read them for free.

Roy Mankovitz, Director www.MontecitoWellness.com

posted by Researcher on 6/18/2009 2:00 pm

Good point to emphasize - HUGE health difference between eating factory-farmed, caged animals versus grass-fed, organic, truly humanely raised animals.

The best thing you can do is eat the COMMON SENSE DIET. No processed foods, chemically altered ingredients, sprayed produce, farmed animals, etc. Just free-range, organic meat raised on what they're supposed to eat, produce that's organic/not sprayed and preferably locally grown, whole raw cheese, whole raw milk, whole grain artisan bread, NO SOY, raw cream, and so on.

Stop counting fat, calories, and so on. Just eat as pure a diet as you can. Experiment by making your own sauces, dressings, and so on. Make your own buttermilk, sour cream, keifer, and so on from cultures. Eat more herbs and spices (non-irradiated, organic).

If you say you don't have the time, then cancel your television access.

If you say you don't have energy, it's probably your current diet that's sucking away your energy.

If you have a medical condition or something you want to cure, look first to your diet.

Many of us are blessed enough to have such wonderful food at our fingertips. Don't let a 50 hour work week or full time classes take away your right to eat a healthy meal.

posted by JessicaLeah on 6/18/2009 2:38 pm

" There is even grudging acknowledgement that trans fats aren't as bad as they have been portrayed?" Really??? I hope they aren't saying that. Trans fats are actually worse than " they" have been saying.

The author probably gained that three pounds not because she ate all that yummy fat, but because she did it while keeping her carbohydrate intake the same. If her carb intake was enough to raise her insulin level then she will be storing those additional calories from fat as fat. But if her insulin is under control she will just burn that fat as energy. And it is not just refined carbs that can be a problem. Read Primal Body, Primal Mind by Nora Gedgaudas for an explanation.

posted by elliebelly on 6/21/2009 4:41 pm

The problem with our diets have much to do with the civilizations we have created - specially those of Western developed nations which are driven by technology, consumerism and insatiable profits - and the inherent life styles we have adopted as a consequence . On the one hand, we spend too much time in front of our computers and tv's, at our desks working ourselves to sickness (and eventually death) and behind the wheels to get to work. On the other, the genetically modified and overly processed foods we consume not only lack natural nutrients but lead people to eat more than they need to . We should do like the Masai in Kenya..spend more time outdoors walking, dancing and farming!

posted by lpedota on 6/23/2009 12:16 pm

If we adopt the Maasai diet, shouldn't we adopt their lifestyes first?

I agree that zero fat is not good, but I don't think it is correct to adopt a tribe's diet or a diet which was common a century back, whose lifestyle is/was completely different from our current lifestyle.

posted by abhilasha on 6/24/2009 10:38 am

When I was diagnosed with Type II Diabetes in 2000, my doctor, a very progressive M.D., recommended a book by Diana Schwarzbein, M.D., an endocrinologist and metabolic specialist practicing in Santa Barbara, CA. I started reading the book, which flew in the face of the "nutritional wisdom" of the time, which was a low fat, high carb diet. She must have said at least 100 times in the book, "Fat does not make you fat; sugar makes you fat." I remember thinking, "Oh, no, this is all wrong." However, a little voice inside urged me to keep reading and to try her eating plan for treating diabetes. The only food group she limited was carbohydrates, Being diabetic, my daily allowance was only between 45-60 grams, which isn't a lot. It amounted to 1/4 cup of rice at a meal, 1 slice of low-carb bread, etc. Well, I was eating eggs, bacon, cheese, butter, read meat, etc. and I never felt better in my life. Not only that, I lost 85 lbs., my blood sugar went down into the normal range, my triglycerides went down to normal, my cholesteral went into the normal range, and my blood pressure was 110/70. I was astounded! But I couldn't argue with those results!

She emphasized that the more carbs you eat, the more you crave them. My experience was that after 4-5 days of eating no carbs, I didn't crave them anymore.

By the way, the book is still in print and is entitled "The Schwarzbein Principle." I highly recommend it even if you're not diabetic.

posted by moonsongnm on 6/25/2009 3:19 am

Postscript to my previous post: This diet is not an extreme, fad diet like some have been. It is well-balanced. She emphasizes the importance of eating either protein or fat (or both) with carbohydrates, including fruit, but not eating carbs by themselves due to how quickly they convert to sugar in our bodies. The recipes in the book are delicious and I am NEVER hungry. I eat 3 meals and 2 snacks per day.

There are a few foods that she is vehemently opposed to, like pasta (of any kind) and milk (because of the lactose, or sugar, it contains). Cream is fine because it has no lactose. So, I eat oatmeal (whole oats) with cream on it!

She also maintains that our bodies process artificial sweeteners the same way as they do sugar. Therefore, for diabetics her only recommended sugar substitute is stevia. I've been using it exclusively ever since.

I recently posted a question on her website about agave nectar and she said it was all right in limited amounts for diabetics.

posted by moonsongnm on 6/25/2009 3:31 am

If I didn’t know better, I would say that this article was commissioned by someone from the USDA or the meat lobby in a sneaky attempt to bring new interest to an industry that is suffering from its well deserved all around bad reputation.

The conclusion of the 5 page treatise? Go ahead and have some bacon brittle with some pork crackling, it won’t kill you. Are you kidding me? The last time I checked, surgeons have yet to find broccoli clogged arteries when they perform bypass surgery. It is always animal fat. We eat too much of it and we are dying of it. Hospitals are full of meat eaters, not vegetarians or vegans.

I agree that chemicals, refined starches and sugar (and especially the all pervasive corn syrup) are very harmful to our health, but the difference between our parents and grand parents generations and our generation, is the amount of animal products and the quantity of refined and processed foods that we now consume at all hours of the day.

In a little over 50 years, our entire food supply has been taken over by meat, corn and soy production to sustain the meat industry, that’s the truth, but don’t take my word for it, instead go see the movie “Food Inc”, get all the facts, then decide what’s good for you.

For a magazine that touts itself to be green and sustainable, you should know that the meat industry is responsible for more greenhouse gas than all forms of transportation combined. Meat is not green! So, it doesn't matter what you drive, what you eat makes a bigger difference because you do it 3 times a day, your entire life.

I have been a long time subscriber and I am this close to canceling my subscription if you keep publishing more of this kind of blatant disinformation. It is so old paradigm, old boys school! There is nothing progressive or optimistic about it!

Given that we now slaughtering more than 10 BILLION farm animals in the US every year, maybe, reducing or abstaining from supporting this subsidized yearly holocaust would be a good thing. I, for one, won't have any blood on my hand and any part in it. I don't believe in killing, harming any being in feeding myself. I have enjoyed more than 20 years of living on a plant based food and don't have any of the problems mentioned in the article. You can do it the hard way or the kind way.

posted by Luminus on 7/ 4/2009 2:17 pm

I like this article...good to see the *truth* in more mainstream outlets The article says the pro-fat backlash has yet to reach europe, but here in the UK I have been noticing this backlash (though it is nowhere near as big as I'd like it to be). I read an article on Jennifer McLagan's fat book (an interview more like) and another article by a guy who was talking about how people in thailand have switched from their traditional coconut oil to the highly processed veg oils with a simultaneous increase in disease, and explaining how saturated fat is actually NOT bad, and how the whole anti fat thing has its basis in poor science and politics

posted by reamz on 7/ 8/2009 4:34 pm

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