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Fat is where it's at

For decades, fat has been blamed for everything from heart disease to obesity to cancer. But new research shows that fat can be good for you.

Janet Paskin | June/July 2009 issue

Photo: Pieter de Swart

Jenny Matthau stands in front of hundreds of students at the Natural Gourmet School and speaks heresy. The New York City culinary program specializes in "health-supportive, whole-foods cuisine" with a "plant-based curriculum." Beef and pork aren’t on the syllabus, to say nothing of veal—and the school’s alumni run kitchens at health spas and work in restaurants with names like Organic Planet. So when Matthau, who’s president of the school and teaches the core nutrition class, delivers her lecture in praise of fat, students are often surprised.

"A lot of students expect to hear just what the government is saying: You have your good fats and your bad fats, and you should try to eat a very low-fat diet," Matthau says. "And we don’t agree."

Instead, Matthau’s lecture includes a long section on why we need fats of all kinds in our diets, much more than we’ve been led to believe. She points out societies like the Maasai, a Kenyan tribe that counts meat, blood and whole milk among its dietary staples, yet has low rates of heart disease and obesity. She praises fat’s capacity to add flavor to a dish and make people feel full. "Fat makes things taste great, period," Matthau says. "I’m a big fan." Even so, sometimes it feels like a losing battle. "Students still want alternatives to butter."

For more than three decades, we’ve been told that fatty foods are deadly, to blame for a full menu of health hazards, from heart disease to obesity to cancer. Regularly described as the nutritional equivalent of cigarettes, fat has been the target of public-service campaigns and municipal bans aimed at keeping us slender and healthy. But a growing body of international research suggests our obsessive fear of fat may be misplaced. A high-fat diet won’t necessarily make us sick or fat; a low-fat diet may not make us healthy or slim.

Even the American Heart Association (AHA), a leader in the campaign against dietary fat, recently revised its nutritional guidelines, increasing the daily recommendations for fat. "The science just wasn’t there," acknowledges Robert Eckel, president of the AHA and a professor of endocrinology, metabolism and diabetes at the University of Colorado Health Sciences Center.

Photo: istockphoto.com/juanmonino

Not only that, but our myopic aversion to fat may be doing more damage than an order of steak frites ever could. In our effort to avoid the demon lipids at all costs, we’re forever tinkering with our diets—substituting Snackwells for Oreos, dry toast and a glass of orange juice for a plate of bacon and eggs—in hopes it will keep us skinny almost effortlessly. But these dietary contortions often have unintended consequences. They inspire us to eat more food, for starters. And the food we eat more of? It contains more chemicals, starches and sugar. These ingredients "are more harmful than the much-feared animal fats," says Irina Baumbach, secretary of the Association for Nutritional Medicine and Dietetics in Aachen, Germany.

It’s a shame, really. Because as it happens, experts now recognize fat can be good for you. Aside from the beneficial effects some fats can have on cholesterol—unsaturated fats, like olive oil, tend to raise levels of good cholesterol and lower levels of the bad stuff—fats help deliver vitamins, build cells and regulate hormones. Unsaturated fat also has antioxidant properties, which may help fight cancer; so does meat from grass-fed animals. The oft-repeated hypothesis that links a high-fat diet to breast cancer has never been proved. And when it comes to appetite, hunger and obesity, fats—along with protein, green vegetables and whole grains—take more time to digest, making people feel full longer.

Even critics of high-fat diets acknowledge that people on them tend to eat less because they aren’t as hungry. And according to studies published recently in the New England Journal of Medicine (NEJM), many people even have a type of fat—known as brown adipose tissue, or brown fat—that burns calories rather than piling them on.


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Comments (11)

This isn't new information. It's new MAINSTREAM information. But more information can be found at WestonAPrice.org, among other websites. Thank you very, very much for putting this on the cover. Saturated fat is GOOD for us! Tribal diets all over the world prove this. Eat whole foods, not non-fat foods. I'm writing for work, or I'd write longer praises about your article. Suffice it to say, thank you for sharing!

posted by JessicaLeah on 6/17/2009 6:53 pm

I believe when people have recommended lard as part of our diet, they were referring to self-rendered lard, as opposed to the carcinogenic, hydrogenated form we find in the grocery store.

posted by sequoia on 6/18/2009 12:31 pm

Great article, with some caveats. The source of the fats is quite important. Personally, I am not a fan of eating grain-fed caged-animal foods and consider them unhealthy for a substantial portion of the population. I feel the same way when it comes to vegan and most vegetarian diets. Instead, I eat what my research has shown to be what Nature intended, which is a diet of free-range grass and grub-fed animal foods (the more fat the better) and ripe sweet fruit. The largest "clinical trial" in the history of our species (conducted by Nature over 100,000 generations) has proven to me that this diet is the healthiest and most ecologically sustainable.

Of course, there are no recent studies based on this diet because virtually nobody eats this way as a result of having been brainwashed by the AgriGiants and feedlot meat production industries. For those interested in a discussion of the unsustainability of planting annual monocrops such as wheat, corn and soy (all require huge amounts of fossil fuels and manmade chemical processing to produce), and the benefits of raising animals on perennial grass (no planting, no fertilizing, no pesticides), read: "The Vegetarian Myth" by Lierre Keith and "Against the Grain" by Richard Manning (researches the ethical, political, ecological, and nutritional deficits of a vegetarian diet). For those interested in reading about a fascinating experiment based on Nature to provide a healthy life in harmony with our environment, read my book "The Original Diet - The Omnivore's Solution". Ask your librarian to obtain copies and you can read them for free.

Roy Mankovitz, Director www.MontecitoWellness.com

posted by Researcher on 6/18/2009 2:00 pm

Good point to emphasize - HUGE health difference between eating factory-farmed, caged animals versus grass-fed, organic, truly humanely raised animals.

The best thing you can do is eat the COMMON SENSE DIET. No processed foods, chemically altered ingredients, sprayed produce, farmed animals, etc. Just free-range, organic meat raised on what they're supposed to eat, produce that's organic/not sprayed and preferably locally grown, whole raw cheese, whole raw milk, whole grain artisan bread, NO SOY, raw cream, and so on.

Stop counting fat, calories, and so on. Just eat as pure a diet as you can. Experiment by making your own sauces, dressings, and so on. Make your own buttermilk, sour cream, keifer, and so on from cultures. Eat more herbs and spices (non-irradiated, organic).

If you say you don't have the time, then cancel your television access.

If you say you don't have energy, it's probably your current diet that's sucking away your energy.

If you have a medical condition or something you want to cure, look first to your diet.

Many of us are blessed enough to have such wonderful food at our fingertips. Don't let a 50 hour work week or full time classes take away your right to eat a healthy meal.

posted by JessicaLeah on 6/18/2009 2:38 pm

" There is even grudging acknowledgement that trans fats aren't as bad as they have been portrayed?" Really??? I hope they aren't saying that. Trans fats are actually worse than " they" have been saying.

The author probably gained that three pounds not because she ate all that yummy fat, but because she did it while keeping her carbohydrate intake the same. If her carb intake was enough to raise her insulin level then she will be storing those additional calories from fat as fat. But if her insulin is under control she will just burn that fat as energy. And it is not just refined carbs that can be a problem. Read Primal Body, Primal Mind by Nora Gedgaudas for an explanation.

posted by elliebelly on 6/21/2009 4:41 pm

The problem with our diets have much to do with the civilizations we have created - specially those of Western developed nations which are driven by technology, consumerism and insatiable profits - and the inherent life styles we have adopted as a consequence . On the one hand, we spend too much time in front of our computers and tv's, at our desks working ourselves to sickness (and eventually death) and behind the wheels to get to work. On the other, the genetically modified and overly processed foods we consume not only lack natural nutrients but lead people to eat more than they need to . We should do like the Masai in Kenya..spend more time outdoors walking, dancing and farming!

posted by lpedota on 6/23/2009 12:16 pm

If we adopt the Maasai diet, shouldn't we adopt their lifestyes first?

I agree that zero fat is not good, but I don't think it is correct to adopt a tribe's diet or a diet which was common a century back, whose lifestyle is/was completely different from our current lifestyle.

posted by abhilasha on 6/24/2009 10:38 am

When I was diagnosed with Type II Diabetes in 2000, my doctor, a very progressive M.D., recommended a book by Diana Schwarzbein, M.D., an endocrinologist and metabolic specialist practicing in Santa Barbara, CA. I started reading the book, which flew in the face of the "nutritional wisdom" of the time, which was a low fat, high carb diet. She must have said at least 100 times in the book, "Fat does not make you fat; sugar makes you fat." I remember thinking, "Oh, no, this is all wrong." However, a little voice inside urged me to keep reading and to try her eating plan for treating diabetes. The only food group she limited was carbohydrates, Being diabetic, my daily allowance was only between 45-60 grams, which isn't a lot. It amounted to 1/4 cup of rice at a meal, 1 slice of low-carb bread, etc. Well, I was eating eggs, bacon, cheese, butter, read meat, etc. and I never felt better in my life. Not only that, I lost 85 lbs., my blood sugar went down into the normal range, my triglycerides went down to normal, my cholesteral went into the normal range, and my blood pressure was 110/70. I was astounded! But I couldn't argue with those results!

She emphasized that the more carbs you eat, the more you crave them. My experience was that after 4-5 days of eating no carbs, I didn't crave them anymore.

By the way, the book is still in print and is entitled "The Schwarzbein Principle." I highly recommend it even if you're not diabetic.

posted by moonsongnm on 6/25/2009 3:19 am

Postscript to my previous post: This diet is not an extreme, fad diet like some have been. It is well-balanced. She emphasizes the importance of eating either protein or fat (or both) with carbohydrates, including fruit, but not eating carbs by themselves due to how quickly they convert to sugar in our bodies. The recipes in the book are delicious and I am NEVER hungry. I eat 3 meals and 2 snacks per day.

There are a few foods that she is vehemently opposed to, like pasta (of any kind) and milk (because of the lactose, or sugar, it contains). Cream is fine because it has no lactose. So, I eat oatmeal (whole oats) with cream on it!

She also maintains that our bodies process artificial sweeteners the same way as they do sugar. Therefore, for diabetics her only recommended sugar substitute is stevia. I've been using it exclusively ever since.

I recently posted a question on her website about agave nectar and she said it was all right in limited amounts for diabetics.

posted by moonsongnm on 6/25/2009 3:31 am

If I didn’t know better, I would say that this article was commissioned by someone from the USDA or the meat lobby in a sneaky attempt to bring new interest to an industry that is suffering from its well deserved all around bad reputation.

The conclusion of the 5 page treatise? Go ahead and have some bacon brittle with some pork crackling, it won’t kill you. Are you kidding me? The last time I checked, surgeons have yet to find broccoli clogged arteries when they perform bypass surgery. It is always animal fat. We eat too much of it and we are dying of it. Hospitals are full of meat eaters, not vegetarians or vegans.

I agree that chemicals, refined starches and sugar (and especially the all pervasive corn syrup) are very harmful to our health, but the difference between our parents and grand parents generations and our generation, is the amount of animal products and the quantity of refined and processed foods that we now consume at all hours of the day.

In a little over 50 years, our entire food supply has been taken over by meat, corn and soy production to sustain the meat industry, that’s the truth, but don’t take my word for it, instead go see the movie “Food Inc”, get all the facts, then decide what’s good for you.

For a magazine that touts itself to be green and sustainable, you should know that the meat industry is responsible for more greenhouse gas than all forms of transportation combined. Meat is not green! So, it doesn't matter what you drive, what you eat makes a bigger difference because you do it 3 times a day, your entire life.

I have been a long time subscriber and I am this close to canceling my subscription if you keep publishing more of this kind of blatant disinformation. It is so old paradigm, old boys school! There is nothing progressive or optimistic about it!

Given that we now slaughtering more than 10 BILLION farm animals in the US every year, maybe, reducing or abstaining from supporting this subsidized yearly holocaust would be a good thing. I, for one, won't have any blood on my hand and any part in it. I don't believe in killing, harming any being in feeding myself. I have enjoyed more than 20 years of living on a plant based food and don't have any of the problems mentioned in the article. You can do it the hard way or the kind way.

posted by Luminus on 7/ 4/2009 2:17 pm

I like this article...good to see the *truth* in more mainstream outlets The article says the pro-fat backlash has yet to reach europe, but here in the UK I have been noticing this backlash (though it is nowhere near as big as I'd like it to be). I read an article on Jennifer McLagan's fat book (an interview more like) and another article by a guy who was talking about how people in thailand have switched from their traditional coconut oil to the highly processed veg oils with a simultaneous increase in disease, and explaining how saturated fat is actually NOT bad, and how the whole anti fat thing has its basis in poor science and politics

posted by reamz on 7/ 8/2009 4:34 pm

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